Tuesday, September 12, 2017

Chicago Basin, Day 3, Twin Lakes

No one wanted to push it today after the tiring climb in yesterday.  It turns out Dan and Ken went further up Chicago Basin the afternoon before, but found a LOT of tents, so they came and set up in the site at the start of the Basin.

I had expected everyone to cook breakfast, so I had brought Mountain House Skillet servings for breakfast.  We all cooked, and it took till about 0900 for everyone to get ready to move.  I had got up about 0615, with Dan up before me.  We were both a bit impatient to start.

The plan was to go up through the Basin, and make the climb up to 12,500' at Twin Lakes were Dan and I would try fishing.  However, we had camped earlier (distance, not time) than expected, and were starting from about 10,750'.  The trail through the Basin was picturesque and with little rise.

As with the day before, Dan and Ken took off at a brisk pace and quickly left us behind.

The elevation rose to about 11,200' at the end of the Basin, about 1.25 miles from our camp.  At that point, the trail split with Twin Lakes to the left and Columbine Pass to the right.  Today, we took the left hand trail to Twin Lakes.  Matt was protecting a painful knee, and both of us were taking it easy for our breathing.  When the trail split, the climbing began.  I don't think the last 1,300' of rise was over more than a mile and a half.  LOTS of steps going up, and it was all steep.  Still, if it had been at 6,000' or below, it wouldn't have been bad.  It seemed unbelievable how long that last half mile took!

Dan and Ken made it up to Twin Lakes in about 2.5 hours.  The three of us took 4 hours, but we did stop for lunch--and lots of breathing breaks.  In all honesty, the trail was very well built and not really challenging from a footing perspective.  Though there were a few spots you had to be careful, and you didn't want to lose your balance.  The views were fantastic!

When we got over the ridge and to the small Twin Lakes, we found Dan with his fishing pole.  His orange shirt made him easy to find.  Turns out he had wandered most of the way around the lake and never got a nibble on his fishing line.  So I didn't even pull out my pole.

Ken wasn't at the Lakes.  He had joined up with Tom, a thin, fast hiker from the East Coast, and they went on up to Windom peak.

We took some photos, had a snack, and a short rest, and then started down by about 1:15 pm.   Dan and Steve had done some high mountain hiking before and were expecting showers and possible lightning between about 3:00 and 5:00 pm.  And none of us wanted to be on those steep rock steps and the climb down in slippery rain.

Of course a group of about 10 climbers decided to leave the Lakes and start down just after we took off.  So we had to wait for them to go by.  Dan took off like a rocket (I really think he hates those storms), and even passed the large group when they stopped to chat and blocked the trail for us.

I followed Matt down.  He was going very slow, favoring his knee, and sliding in the sand on the rocks.  I was sliding a bit too, but not as much.  When Steve stopped for some water, I kept going and left Matt for Steve to watch for the rest of the return.  At that point, I took off as fast as I could.  The clouds were getting pretty threatening.

I could go at almost my full speed going downhill or on the level.  It was only significant uphills that seemed to result in my out-of-breath condition.  I got down to the basin and maybe 3/4 of a mile from camp before the rain and hale hit, and I had to put on my rain gear.  The thunder and rain started about 2:00 pm.

Here's our elevation profile for the day:

The storm only lasted until I got to camp.  Dan hadn't made it either, and his poncho was out on a bush.  We all got into tents (or under tarps) for a while for a few intermittent sprinkles.  When I got bored laying there and watching the rain drops and bugs on the top of my tarp, I hunted for my electronics bag.  It had somehow gotten to the bottom of the pack underneath my compactor bag that I use to protect my down quilt and jacket.  So I started charging my watch and phone.  After I heard the guys talking for a while over at tent-central, I got out and went over.

After a bit, the sun came out, and we put our rain gear out in the sunlight to dry.  Ken hadn't made it back yet.  By about 4:30, I decided to fix dinner so I would have some time to arrange things at my tarp.  I also wanted to get back to my trail habit where I ate and drank my fill of water before six.

I find that if I stop drinking water by six, I can take a leak before going to sleep and last till morning.  Getting out of the quilt and zipped up bivy at night to take a leak is a real pain.  Plus, you generally need to put your (often) wet shoes on over your clean sleeping socks.  That first night, I drank water late, and had to get up twice.  I didn't have to get up any other night while I was there.

By 5:00 or so, some of us were getting a bit worried about Ken.  He hadn't returned from his trip to Windom.

Ken finally made it back to camp about 6:00 pm.  He said some other hikers had given them advice about going around some snow areas, and they had made a time-consuming, unnecessary detour towards Jupiter.  He also mentioned that they left the poles and packs to scramble the last 300 meters of the climb.

Ken said the hale had started while they were at the peak, but by the time they reached the treacherous steps down from Twin Lakes, the precipitation had stopped and the stones were dry.  He also mentioned the lightning had not been close to their position.

We talked about options for the next day.  One hiker had mentioned that he had gotten to Columbine Pass and seen fish jumping down in Columbine Lake below the pass.  So Dan's suggestion that we try Columbine Pass the next day was quickly accepted.  That hiker also mentioned he did not go down to the lake, because he didn't want to have to climb back up to the pass.

Before closing for the day, I will mention my food.  I brought Mountain House Skillet for breakfast, then peanut butter, jelly and tortilla for lunch.  My snacks were chocolate covered raisins, Fritos, Snickers bars, and Builder Bars (didn't touch those).  For some reason, no one else seemed to snack on the trail during the day hikes (I found out later at least Steve was snacking on the go without stopping).  My dinners were Mountain House beef stroganoff, protein 'shakes', and freeze dried fruit.  I took 1.5 servings of stroganoff for each dinner.  I should have stuck with a single serving.  The 'shakes' were two scoops of whey protein isolate, and two heaping tablespoons each of Ovaltine chocolate malt and dried milk.  The fruit was either dried bananas or peaches.  I didn't go hungry, but the size was a bit large.  Also, I didn't take a variety of dinners, and that was a mistake.  I like stroganoff, but after three dinners, I swapped my fourth with an Alpine Air that Dan had.  The Alpine dinner was a double serving, and I almost couldn't finish it!

When I went to bed, I still hadn't found my retainers.  I was hoping they would still go on after several days without them!

By the way, the feet and muscles were doing fine.  I even made it back up the hill after getting water without stopping to breathe.  The first night, I had to stop and rest on the way back up.

As usual, I'm posting the better photos here at the end of the post.  Here's Ken and Dan in Chicago Basin near our camp.

And here's Matt and Steve...


Chicago Basin, Day 2, The Train and Hike In

Three of us were down in the 'breakfast' area of the Super 8 by 0600 as planned.  A couple of the group were 20 minutes late.  Turns out each day, there was always a couple that got up later.  It wasn't always the same folks.  Though Dan was up first all but one day.

We were a bit worried about a parking space in the railroad parking lot.  This was Labor Day weekend, and we suspected the crowds might be large, with lots of people leaving their vehicles while they backpacked.  Supposedly, Chicago Basin is the busiest camping area in Colorado because of the 14,000 foot peaks.

We got over to the lot by about 0645, and it was nearly empty. :)  The train depot is a 3-5 minute walk from their parking lot, and we only wasted a little time getting the packs out of the vehicles and heading over.  It took a couple of minutes to get our tickets.  We dropped off our packs by some benches and headed over to the free train museum.  There was a 0800 train heading from Durango to Silverton, but it wasn't stopping at Needleton.  Ours was the 0845 train.  And it would drop us off at about 1135 (rather than the 1115 we expected).

The museum was probably the most impressive I've seen.  Certainly, the most enjoyable.  It was small enough you didn't get bored, and there were more interesting exhibits than lengthy write-up explanations/descriptions.  I think it had two full locomotives (real ones), and several passenger cars.  If you visit Durango, don't skip this museum!  You can get to it and go in free even if you don't pay for a train ride.

I left the museum and went to the front of the 0800 train to get a video of the train departing.  They warned you to stay on the upwind side of the train to avoid the soot.  One gentleman claimed to have ruined a set of attire with soot he couldn't get out.  The trains are coal-fired and steam driven.  The smoke and soot that comes out is truly amazing.  And the whistle blasts are close to deafening.  Three trains go up from Durango to Silverton each morning, and then three come back in the afternoon.  I'm not sure why people appeared to buy expensive homes near the railroad; it would have been extremely irritating to me on a long term basis.

You can ride in an open gondola car (I think all backpackers did, probably to keep the stink from the other passengers) or a traditional closed passenger car.  There was 'low-cost' cars and there were expensive cars (at the back of the train) with thick leather seats that looked more expensive than my lounger at home.  They had bathrooms in the non-gondola cars, and a refreshment/bar car.  They advised passengers to wear sunglasses or buy $4 glasses to keep soot out of our eyes.  The soot, at least part of it was like sand, and it ended up covering the gondola seats and most of our clothes and hair.  Our gondola car was just behind the boxcar with our packs which itself was just behind the locomotive and coal car.  We were strongly exposed to the soot, steam condensation, and aromas coming from the locomotive.  I suspect they put the expensive seats/cars at the back to avoid those 'unpleasantries.'

We piled our packs into the boxcar about 45 minutes before our 0845 train was to depart, right after the 0800 train left.  Then we were supposed to be in our seats 30 minutes before departure.  I was lucky, and my seat (#3) was on a split between two benches.  Don't reserve the #3 seat in the gondolas!

I think the train takes 4 hours to go the 45 miles to Silverton.  It took us 3 hours to get to the Needleton flagstop, where we got off.  Get seats on the right side of the train when departing Durango.  The view of the river gorge is magnificent.  The other side of the train either saw rock walls a couple of feet away, or wooded/rocky hills rising to ridges.

The train seems to creep along, especially going out of and in to Durango.  But it also slows way down for the best sites and some of the steeper curves.  It never goes fast.  It didn't bother us going up to Needleton, but it was a bit irritating on the ride back where we sat on the wrong side of the train.

I used the restroom once.  It was small like those on airplanes, and clean.  The problem was the rocking of the train.  It was much worse than turbulence on a plane.  If the train hadn't slowed to a near stop while I was in there, I probably wouldn't have been successful at my business.

We got off at Needleton, and started setting up our packs.  I had several electronic and rain wear items in my day/fanny pack.  I had set up my Zpacks Arc Blast backpack to minimize the chance of damage and loss.  So it took me a few minutes to transfer items to my pack and get ready.

My old Mountain Smith Tour pack actually weighed 2 ounces more than my cuben (oops, Dyneema Hybrid) backpack.  Again, as in the hotel, I was rushed and didn't have a chance at proper organization.  The others all had traditional bomb-proof packs and so had them set up for hiking before they put them in the boxcar.

Our plan was to hike the 6.2 miles up into Chicago Basin and camp there, then do day hikes up to the peaks.  The Needleton flagstop was at about 8,200', and the target location in Chicago Basin was at 11,200'.  So a 3,000' foot climb in 6 miles or about a 10% grade.  Dan thought it wouldn't be much of a problem.  My own experience in Montana at altitude said my lungs don't like high elevations.  And my experience on the Appalachian Trail said the going would be slower than expected.

Dan and Ken took off like they were at the races.  Steve, Matt and I kept up the 0.6 miles to the trail head register, then we backed off and let Dan and Ken go their own pace.  The forest service required us to pack out our toilet paper, and they encouraged packing out excrement.  Supposedly, they had thick plastic bags at the trail head for that purpose.  There were no bags to be found.  Also, the required register didn't have any empty pages.

The trail grade was generally pretty acceptable.  There were some steep parts with rocks and slippery sand.  The real difficulty was breathing at the high altitude.  We didn't have much in the way of time for acclimating.  Steve and I both got out of breath pretty quickly.  They let me slow our pace to a moderate rate, and we stopped frequently to get our breath.  We really did not push it, and in truth I did not want to.  I drank a lot to help avoid altitude sickness.

We made the first three miles in reasonably good time (not what you would think was good in San Antonio).  The last three seemed to take forever.  I was testing out my Hikers Assistant watch app, that I had been developing the last couple of months, to complement my Hikers Assistant iOS app for iPhones.  The newer Apple Series 2 watches have GPS, waterproofing, and most important, a battery than can last a couple of days.  My watch progress screen shows miles, elevation, speed, elapsed time, and steps.  It worked perfectly going up.  But it also made our slow progress somewhat agonizing.

Here's the elevation profile for our climb:

I started to worry we wouldn't get there in time to set up camp and eat before the roughly 7:30 pm sunset.  Dan and Steve had radios, but the connectivity wasn't very good.  About 5:00 pm, we heard that Dan had found a camp, and put an obvious marker on the trail.

About 6:00 pm, we came to a flat section we figured was the start of Chicago Basin.  We were only about 5.75 miles in.  As we passed a couple near a tent, they came running over, and asked if we were looking for a guy in a bright orange t-shirt (Dan's attire for the next couple of days).  Apparently they were set up a little back from these folks' tent.

We soon found Dan and Ken, and set up our tents.  The other four all had solo (or slightly larger) tents.  I had an 8.5' x 10.0' tarp and bivy.  The camp site was at the top of a hill next to the creek (maybe 150' to 200' feet away), among tall pines and surrounded by mountains.  It was also far enough away from the trail, that hikers didn't bother us.

This was a new, lighter tarp for me, so it took a little longer to set up than my old one.  This one didn't use the tensioners I had on my other tarp.  And since we were day-hiking, I brought one of my wife's trekking poles (a third one) to use on the tarp.  I typically have a base weight just under 11 pounds, but with the extra pole, day pack, fishing gear, extra fleece (uncertain about high mountain weather) and electronics for testing my apps, I was almost up to 14 this time.  I really don't like the extra weight.

By the way, I used the fleece sweater in the evenings and never even pulled out my down jacket.  It was a waste carrying the extra 7 ounces.

But back to camp.  I got out my small Fissure Ti-Tri (Caldera) alcohol stove, got some water and filtered it, and ate before dark.  I think Dan and Ken used their JetBoils and finished dinner before dark.  But Steve and Matt took a while (they used a traditional small iso-butane burner and tank with a homemade windscreen) and didn't finish till after sunset.

There was a run-down, mostly collapsed cabin by Needle Creek, and the creek had easy access for water.  I used a Nalgene bottle for collection.  Then a Steripen for purification.  Then pour the water from the Nalgene into a Dasani water bottle for drinking.

All of the others used Sawyer filter systems.  That took longer getting water into their bottles and then filtering it.

After a dinner and a little talking, I hit the tarp/bivy for the night.  I couldn't find my electronics bag with my external battery and cables, so the Apple watch and iPhone didn't get charged that night.  I found out the new Apple watch will last two days on a charge!  My iPhone is a large 6S+ with a huge battery, so I didn't have to worry there.  Though I was using the GPS for 6 hours!

I also couldn't find my retainers (for teeth alignment) for two days.

On the other hand, the new 20 degree quilt from Zpacks was overkill.  I don't think it got under 37 degrees F the whole week.  I was sweating under my fleece hat.  And I had to take off the Houdini wind jacket I usually sleep in with my 30 degree Katabatic quilt.  I was impressed with the Zpacks quilt.  It was much easier to avoid drafts around the edges than the Katabatic, despite the fact the Zpacks was sized for a 6'3" person while the Katabatic was for a 6'5" user.  I'm only 6'0".

And guys, please don't take offense at this next part. :)  As I was trying to get to sleep, I heard something that sounded like repetitive, quiet moaning.  My hearing is not great anymore, and it's worse in my left ear.  So directionality is hit-or-miss.  At first, it sounded like it was off in the woods.  I wondered if a mountain goat was in pain?  It didn't sound like it was sex from the couple in the other direction, not nearly as animated as I would have expected from them.

Finally, I realized it was coming from the direction of the other four tents, and was probably somebody snoring.

Unfortunately, with my usual lack of tact and sensitivity, I mentioned it the next morning.  I thought my suspicion it was a mountain goat was kind of funny.  However, I'm not sure it was taken that way.

Finally, there seemed to be a full moon every night, almost the whole night long.  The thin cuben fiber on my tent lit up from the light and made it feel almost like a weak sun shining through.  I had to close my eyes (I do that at night anyway) and turn away.  I didn't get a good night sleep that night, but the later nights were fine.

Here are some selected pictures from the day...









Chicago Basin, Day 1, On the Road

I want to start by mentioning where our group lives, and the difference in environment between our homes and our hiking location.  We are all from the San Antonio area.  My home is at about 1,083 feet in elevation.  The Chicago Basin is at about 11,000' in elevation, and that's where we plan to camp.  The two passes to the peaks were at about 12,500', and all four peaks were above 14,000'.

The Chicago Basin is in the Weminuche Wilderness of the San Juan National Forest.  It's north of Durango, south of Silverton, and east of the Animus River.  Durango is in the southwest corner of Colorado.  To get to the Basin, you can either hike on steep trails from Durango or Silverton, or you can take the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad to the Needleton flagstop, and hike the six miles uphill to the Basin from there.  Since a couple of our group had jobs to get back to, we were limited to a week, and needed to take the railroad.  But it was scenic anyway, and an adventure on its own.

I went with Dan and his son Ken and Steve and his son Matt.  Ken lives in a northern state but came down for the trip.  Both Dan and Ken had a slight advantage as they went up into the mountains for the eclipse a couple of weeks earlier and got a bit of acclimatization to the altitude.

The plan for the day was to get up early, meet at a central location, and take two vehicles up from San Antonio to Durango, Colorado.  Google predicted the trip would be about 14 hours.  We were all a bit on edge about the gas situation.  Hurricane Harvey hit the Houston area hard a week earlier, and the Thursday before we left (on Sunday am) there was a panic buy of gas in San Antonio.  Most stations were out of gas, and the few that would get a delivery had lines down the streets.  Would we be able to find gas on I-10, I-25 and Highway 550, our roads up to Durango?  Dan brought a couple of 5 gallon cans of gas for Steve's vehicle.  We decided to stick to the interstates as much as possible and avoid cross-country Texas highways in the hope that gas would be more available.

It turned out that gas was readily available outside of San Antonio.  However, you would see outages of diesel or premium.  And the prices were going through the roof.  We timed the road trip perfectly!

I think this was my second group backpacking trip, and the first on a multi-vehicle, cross-country drive.  I should have expected the longer stops and lunch break, but really didn't.  I think it took us about 15 hours to get to Durango and our hotel.

The drive was nice, and it was also great to have an extra driver to share the effort.  One unusual event was stopping at a Whattaburger for lunch.  This one, in Las Cruces, was about half the size of the ones I'm used to in Texas.  The parking lot was swamped.  And there were no seats available in the fast-food restaurant for about 5 minutes after we ordered.  Our group of five had to sit at three different tables.

As we got closer to Durango, Ken was checking on restaurants and our hotel.  The Super 8 advertised a quick check-in process.  It turned out to be about the slowest check-in at a hotel I've ever encountered.  The Super 8 was spacious, but a bit run down.

We went to a brew-pub in the historic district for dinner.  It was late (around 9:00 pm) on a Sunday evening.  We didn't have to wait, and the crowd was middling.  The food was OK, but nothing to rave about.  The beer was good.

Dan and I went over to a Walmart afterwards to get fishing licenses, and we got back to the hotel about 11:30.  We all planned to meet at 0600 the next morning to get a parking space over by the train we would take up to Needleton where we would start our hike.

I usually do some sorting and last minute arrangement in my pack the night before a hike. But the long drive, and the late hour caused me to skip that work, and I hit the sack.  As a result, there were a couple of things in my pack I couldn't find for a couple of days.

Friday, May 26, 2017

Isle Royale Gear List, May 2017

The table below shows my base weight, total pack weight with consumables, and body out weight for my recent trip to Isle Royale.


Isle Royale, May 2017


Item oz (ea) # oz (total)
Packed Items
Pack
ZPacks Arc Blast 60L, Hybrid Cuben (2014) 19.8 1 19.8
Trash Compactor Liner 20 gallon 2.1 1 2.1
Backup Wallet add-on (homemade) 0.49 1 0.49
Shelter
Hyperlite Mountain Gear Square Flat Tarp (8.5'^2) w Tie Lines 11 1 11
Tarp Stake Kit (14 stakes) w sack 3.46 1 3.46
Zpacks Cuben Flat Ground Cloth, 36"x90" 2.9 1 2.9
Sleeping System
Katabatic Palisades 30 Sleeping Quilt, 6'6" 18.8 1 18.8
Thermarest NeoAir Xlite, 72" (Regular), Inflatable 12 1 12
MLD Superlight Bivy, Cuben, All Net Hood, LG 5.33 1 5.33
Stove & Cooking
Fissure Tri-Ti w Toaks 850 ml Ti Pot, 12-10 Stove 5.96 1 5.96
Cuben Pot Stuff Sack for Toaks 0.14 1 0.14
Glad Lockware Extra Small, 9.2 oz cup with lid 1.2 1 1.2
Dasani 16 oz Water Bottle (21-32 meals) 0.67 1 0.67
Gallon Baggy for Fuel Bottle 0.32 1 0.32
Aluminum foil (1' square) 0.28 1 0.28
Titanium Spoon - Folding (Toaks with bag) 0.67 1 0.67
Matches, Kitchen (book w/o cover) 0.1 1 0.1
Mini-Bic Lighter 0.4 1 0.4
ZPacks Bear Bagging Kit (carabiner, sacks + 50' Zline slick cord) 2.6 1 2.6
Loksak 12x20 odor-proof OPSAK 1.5 2 3
Hydration
Aquamira Water Purifier Tablets, 20 + 24 = 44 1.34 1 1.34
Aquamira Liquid Rebottled (2x small bottles) + Mix cap + Baggy 1.41 1 1.41
Sawyer Squeeze PointOne (SP129) Filter 2.5 1 2.5
Sawyer Squeeze PointOne Backflush Syringe 1.06 1 1.06
Evernew 2L Bladder 1.52 1 1.52
Sawyer Squeeze 2L Bladder 1.34 1 2.68
AquaFina Water Bottle (1L) w Screw Top 1.23 2 2.46
Water Scoop 0.18 1 0.18
Toiletries & Skin/Bug Protection
Vivera Retainers 0.14 1 0.14
Retainer Container 1.1 1 1.1
QiWiz Original Trowel, Ti, 6" 0.42 1 0.42
Inox Nail Scissors w cover, Matt Finish, Stainless Steel 0.88 1 0.88
Emory Nail File 0 1 0
Dental Kit Small (toothbrush, floss, powdered paste, lip balm) 1.23 1 1.23
Purell in 30 ml squeeze bottle 1.38 1 1.38
Dr Bonner in small dropper bottle w baggy 0.6 1 0.6
Sunscreen in 30 ml squeeze bottle 1.16 1 1.16
Bug repellant (Picardin) in small dropper bottle 0.6 1 0.6
Sea to Summit Headnet 0.9 1 0.9
Utilities and Navigation
Photon Freedom Red & White & UST Whistle on Lanyard 0.67 1 0.67
Guide Pages/Maps in LockSak 1.1 1 1.1
Fisher Space Pen, Stowaway +7 little sheets of paper 0.39 1 0.39
Gerber Ultralight LST, Knife, Black Pocket 0.6 1 0.6
Electronics & Photography
Delorme inReach Explorer 6.88 1 6.88
Ricoh WG-4 GPS (Pentax) Camera, 32 GB, Halcyon 1500 mAh 8.22 1 8.22
Sandisk Sansa Clip Sport 8 GB (yellow) w 32 GB Micro SDHC 1.02 1 1.02
RavPower 3350 mAh External Battery, Black & White 2.54 1 2.54
Ricoh D-Li92, 3.7 V, 850 mAh 0.55 3 1.65
Lightning USB Cable, Syncwire Braided (1m, gray) 0.56 1 0.56
Bose SoundSport Ear Buds (green) 0.67 1 0.67
Gear Repair Kit
Baggy: Neo-Air, Cuben/Pertex Tape, Floss, Needle, Mini Glasses 1.05 1 1.05
First Aid
First-Aid Kit: Razor, Pin, Tape, 3xAlc, 3xIodine, 2xBandAid, 3xStrips 2.11 1 2.11
Meds: 12xBenadryl, 16xIbuprofen, 8xAcetomeniphen, 4xAmmodium 0.63 1 0.63
Hiker (Feet) Goo in green plastic container 1.23 1 1.23
Hat / Gloves / Socks
ZPacks Micro-Fleece Hat (black) 1 1 1
Buff, Afghan Graphite (Original Buff, polyester microfiber) 1.31 1 1.31
Lightload Towel 12x24" 0.6 1 0.6
Possumdown Gloves (L, black) 1.52 1 1.52
ZPacks Cuben Rain Mitts 1.13 1 1.13
Darn Tough Light Hiker Micro Crew (L) 2.1 1 2.1
Clothing Layers
SeaToSummit Ultra-Sil Nano Drysack 8 L (for clothes, Blue) 0.8 1 0.8
SeaToSummit Ultra-Sil Nano Drysack 8 L (for rain stuff, Orange) 0.8 1 0.8
Montbell Tachyon (wind) jacket w/o hood (L, blue) 1.9 1 1.9
Patagonia Houdini Jacket, Eclectic Orange (L) 3.2 1 3.2
Outdoor Research Helium II Rain Jacket (L, gray) 5.3 1 5.3
Montbell Versalite (rain) Pants (black, L) including sack 4 1 4
Patagonia Men's Capilene® 4 Expedition Weight 1/4 Zip Hoody 8.5 1 8.5
Base Weight (lbs) 10.9



Consumables…
Breakfast (3 oz each + 0.5) 3.5 7 24.5
Lunch (4.4 oz/day) 4.4 7 30.8
Snacks (5 oz/day) 6.7 7 46.9
Dinner (2.5 oz ea +.9) 3.4 7 23.8
Vitamins and Supplements 0.25 7 1.75
Fuel, Alcohol (0.75 oz/day - one meal/day only) 8.66 1 8.66
Water (35.2 oz/L) 35.2 2 70.4
Pad, Incontinence 0.9 1 0.9
Toilet Paper Small (8 squares + baggy) 0.17 8 1.36
Consumables (lbs) 13.1
Total Pack Weight (lbs) 24.0



Worn or Carried Items…
Trekking Poles
Black Diamond Contour Elliptical Trekking Poles 9.5 2 19
Duct Tape around trekking pole (5'/pole) 0.4 1 0.4
Shoes / Boots
Altra Lone Peaks 2.5 Trail Runners (11.5), Low Cut (Red) 12 2 24
Clothing
Headsweats Protech White/Grey Coolmax (w neck sunshield) 2.3 1 2.3
Icebreaker Oasis LS Half Zip Hoody (Snowflake, Gray) 9.03 1 9.03
ExOfficio Give-N-Go Sport Mesh 6" Boxer Brief (M, Petrol) 2.32 1 2.32
Columbia Covertible II Pant (Sage, M, 34"L) 11.46 1 11.46
Darn Tough Light Hiker Micro Crew (L) 2.1 1 2.1
Dirty Girl Gaiters 1.45 1 1.45
Miscellaneous
iPhone 5S (gold) in Lifeproof Nuud Case (waterproof) 5.33 1 5.33
Fitbit Zip 0.25 1 0.25
Suncloud Pursuit Polarized Sunglasses, Gray w Neck Loop 1.09 1 1.09
Reading Glasses w Case (Brown or Gray) 1.13 1 1.13
Silk Handkerchief (16x16") with elastic cord & line lock 0.35 1 0.35
Lightload Towel 12x12" 0.25 1 0.25
Pant Leg Blousing Stretchies 0.03 1 0.03
Suunto Core Wristwatch, Black 2.3 1 2.3
Wallet 1.38 1 1.38
Truck Keys 1.9 1 1.9
Worn & Carried (lbs) 5.4
Body Out Weight (lbs) 29.3

Wednesday, May 24, 2017

Isle Royale Lessons Learned

This post is unusual. Usually I learn a few things around the edges, just minor refinement. This trip I think I learned a lot.

First on travel. Use distance and ave mph to predict time on the road. Say 60 mph. Don't count on a service, an app or a device to cut it closer. Also, have hotels booked at reasonable distances and rates. Every time I drive late I find hotels booked. And trying to find the cheapest needs to be done ahead of time. 

Now for wet and cold. Unless you are going mid-summer Texas, take the down puffy!  The cap 4 expedition weight hoody was barely adequate for low 40's and wind. I thought it would be better for wet conditions. Bah!  Maybe it's only intended as a base layer.

Take decent gloves. Possum down gloves didn't work. They maybe added 2 or 3 degrees of warmth. They did NOT shed water. This is the only Zpacks purchase I have been unhappy with. Not worth it. Carry good fleece or wool plus the cuben rain mitts. 

The Montana ultralight course taught me to sleep in clothes. But what if they get all wet?  You need a backup. My spare (lighter) wind shirt plus my cap4 or puffy would be good for top at night. Need extra undershorts and wind pants or long underwear for bottoms. I need to work weight optimization there to come to a final decision. 

Don't skimp on spare socks. Keep one dry set for night/emergencies. A second to wear. And a third to wear while second is drying. I had a bare foot one night. I lived with it, but it would be better not to. 

Use that foot goo!  I thought I had so few (no) problems in the past, that skipping or just using a little was enough. Maybe that would work on good, dry trails with few rocks and roots. It didn't here!

And if you have damaged insole inserts in your shoes, fix them before the hike. I developed a heavy crease in my left insert during rainy hiking on the AT. It felt like a long rock in the shoe. It also tends to bunch up the sock. I forgot all about it. It got worse during the rainy hiking on Isle Royale. Having a relatively dry (i.e. only damp) sock and placing each footfall flat minimizes the problem. I should have replaced the insert before the trip. 

A couple of odds and ends. Thinking back, the day my clothes all got wet, I had forgotten to take off my buff. I also had the Houdini hood up under the rain jacket hood. In the future I won't let anything interfere with the rain hood's seal around my face. In an opposite situation, I need to use sunscreen. There was very little actual sun, but I still ended with dry skin on my face. 

This was the first time I used the quilt during the day for warmth. Don't rely on a warm forecast. Take the warmer quilt if it might be needed. 

I currently use an ultra-sil waterproof sack for rain wear. But its not really good for wet stuff in the pack. See about a cuben dry sack. 

I skipped the pee bottle this time. I found if I go about 9:00 pm, I don't have a problem holding till dawn. But what if its raining?  You want to keep your rain wear dry but can't hold it long enough. Carry a pee bottle. I carried a pint water bottle with the top cut off for getting lake and stream water for filtering. It works as a pee bottle in an emergency if you are alone and can just throw the urine out from the tarp. If not, carry a real bottle with a lid. 

Ghee has been great up until this trip. This time it was so cold I couldn't squeeze it out of the bladder. Olive oil would have solidified too. Need to think of a solution. 

Snacks are a continuing problem. I always bring them back. I stop for a light snack every hour. Say about 90 to 125 calories. That's half a candy bar or half an ounce of home-bagged snack.  So two bars and two one ounce bags will last up to eight breaks or nine hours on the trail. Assuming you take an extra lunch (e.g. tortilla with peanut butter and jelly) you are good for 10 hours. At my speed that's about 15 to 16 miles per day. I put the four snacks in a waist pocket on my pack. 

For short days, that's too much. For long days it's not enough--and I never want to dig deep down in my food sack to find an extra snack in the middle of a hike. Plan mileage and the right number of snacks!

I brought kale to mix with my Mountain House dinners. On the AT the slight degradation in taste was offset by the worry about nutrition. Here I wasn't going to be gone long enough to have serious nutritional problems. Don't take green vegetable additives on short trips. 

Cooking breakfast... The Mountain House Breakfast Skillet tastes fine, as opposed to their blah scrambled eggs. But when I want to hit the trail quick for a long day, I just want to grab a breakfast bar and get moving. Preferably I stop and eat it after I get warmed up. But if you anticipate a short hiking day or partners that won't start early, go for the cooked meal. Plan ahead for the right food. 

Tarp/bivy vs tent... I love the tarp and bivy. But if it rains, you have to worry about keeping all your bags dry. Plus back splash on bivy and quilt. With the tent everything fits inside and there are almost no back splash issues. If you think its going to be wet, take the tent. I plan to get a longer tarp, 8.5x10 feet versus the 8.5x8.5 foot I have now. Maybe if you are 5'6" you could live with the smaller one in a rain storm. The larger one will cover head and foot back splash better, and its going to save me three ounces. Take the tarp if you anticipate only occasional rain or short storms. 

This time I used a Dasani pint bottle to carry my alcohol. It saved almost half an ounce on my usual bottle and doubled the capacity. Do it again!

Water filtration stinks--not literally. I like my Steripen. This time the presence of tapeworm eggs in Isle Royale waters meant I had to carry a filter. I used an Evernew 2L dirty bag flowing through a Sawyer PointOne with a female-female screw connector either to an AquaFina 1L or to a Sawyer Squeeze 2L bladder. After filtering I added one AquaMira tablet to each liter pf water. This was the lowest weight option I could find in my equipment boxes. My alternative was a heavier 2L Gravity Works system. 

Neither system is optimum if you only want to filter one liter. Both take up space and weight in the pack. And you have to make allowances for everything in the system getting wet. You also have to worry about the filter rupturing if it gets to or below 32 F. To make it worse, no dirty bag I've seen fills easily. Holding them under icy water is painful. You have to bring an extra scoop. A cheap pint water bottle with the top cut off works well. The instructor in Montana used the lower half of a flat 1L Platypus. He could Steripen right in the bladder, tank up (drink) at water sources, and carry almost no water. That relied on water sources every 3 to 4 miles. 

One final point on my water filtration complaint. I believe I drank less than I normally would and less than I should have just because of the hassle. It seems hard to believe most AT hikers use Sawyer Squeeze for their whole trips. 

Finally the extensive bushwhacking this trip was unexpected. I tore two holes in the mesh back pocket on my backpack. A couple of times when I was wearing only my merino base layer on top I almost tore holes in it. Both items are very expensive. Take tough enough gear to handle the conditions you expect. Even then, be careful. 

That's about it for this one. Good hiking!

Isle Royale Final Itinerary and Thoughts

There will be two other posts after this one:  a lessons learned that I'm mostly done with and an equipment list. I'm also waiting on pictures till I get to a PC.

This was my final itinerary:
Day 1 Rock Harbor to Lane Cove, 7 mi
Day 2 Lane Cove to McCargoe Cove, 12 mi
Day 3 McCargoe to S Lake Desor, 18.2 mi
Day 4 Rain at S Lake Desor, 0 mi
Day 5 Lake Desor to Moskey Basin, 20.5 mi
Day 6 Moskey to Rock Harbor, 11 mi
Day 7 Rained out trails @ Rock Harbor, 4.3 mi
Day 8 Trails at Rock Harbor, 7 mi

So I walked 80 miles of trail instead of the planned 106 miles. The 4 days of rain and bitter cold/winds were disappointing. So too were the conditions of the trails. There was a great deal more blow down than in 2014. I wanted to do the whole Minong but the rangers said it was washed out. 

Well, those are the risks of going early in May before the bugs and the crowds get there. This year I lost on my roll of the dice. 

However I'm really more disappointed in myself. I was careless and didn't properly handle the rain. I made decisions to shelter up instead of walking in the rain and seeing more of the island. Admittedly, I don't think my toes and feet would have survived even more rough footing in continually wet socks and shoes. 

Despite my regrets, I am glad that I went. I saw the three moose, the fox, and all the great forests, marshes and lakes. That's not an experience I get very often. It was wonderful!

Tuesday, May 23, 2017

Day 8 Rock Harbor to Copper Harbor

Monday, May 22, 2017
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Started 07:14 AM, stopped 09:59 AM.
Ave mph was 2.54
Battery used:  0 percent
Fitbit: 14,873 steps, 7.01 mi, 1542 cal
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Today is a lot nicer than yesterday. Cloudy with an occasional bit of sun. No rain!  The roaring wind also stopped. 

I ate breakfast and then tried the Stoll Trail out to Scoville Point again. Much wetter but effectively warmer. 

I saw 5 rabbits on the trail, snowshoe rabbits I think. No people till I was on the way back. 

The rocky approach wasn't as bad as I remembered it. Maybe I could follow the path easier. It was pretty windy and chilly out there. 

After making it back I packed up. Must have been 3L of trash for the NPS dumpster. 

Got to the wharf a few minutes before the Queen arrived. It was loaded with people. Hopefully they get better weather. 

I'm in my rain gear sitting on the wharf--a real bench-- waiting the two hours to board. Kind of the worst aspect of Isle transportation. It would be nice if they just turned the Queen around for the trip back immediately after letting off the people from Copper Harbor. 

It got colder on the bench. A huge crowd ended up boarding. Apparently a lot of people just do a weekend. Nice couple sitting next to me from Milwaukee. They had heavy stuff and were on their first backpacking trip. Headed for another 3-4 day trip in a state park. 

This year I have room for my legs. But the boat is rolling something terrible.  Still, no storm! And the rolling didn't bother me. A couple of folks got sick. The rolling was so heavy, I was a little worried about capsizing.

My pack was the last one off the Queen. But I still got a shower and a meal at Mariner North. 

My biggest problem now is what to do with my 8-day stinky clothes!









































































































































































The End